I’ve done a good amount of European travel. France, Italy, Spain…they are all lovely, but the true jewel of the Mediterranean is Croatia and Split was my favorite of all the spots I visited (we spent a little time in Dubrovnik, Makarska, and Zadar as well). Why did I like Split so much? It’s exciting, interesting, and historically rich. This unique Mediterranean town is a dream for serious global travelers, and a secret I really should be keeping to myself. Split is filled to the brim with a rich history that hasn’t been completely paved over, torn down, or redeveloped into some type of modern monstrosity. Split feels very much like an ancient and old city – with all kinds of secrets hidden just beneath the surface. If you are intending to travel to Split in the future (or hope to return to this amazing city by the sea in Croatia quite soon), pay close attention to these travel tips for Split to help make the most of your time. With so much to do, so much to see, and so much to “soak in” you’ll need to create some kind of action plan to make sure that you maximize all of the time that you end up spending here. Shall we get started? Embrace the history that Split has to offer I had wanted to go to Croatia for years. A co-worker at Nordstrom had shown me pictures from his family vacation and I was smitten. With time I had forgotten about this travel goal until one of my art history professors at Rutgers mentioned the Salona. I made it a point to convince Antonio that we needed to stop in Split if even for a few days and I must say we were both blown away. The very first thing that you are going to notice the moment that you step foot in Split is how close to the surface the history of this incredible village really is. With an entire section of the town (located close to the sea) that is entirely comprised of ancient buildings and sites that date back to the fourth century BC, you’re going to have absolutely no trouble whatsoever feeling as though you have been transported to another time. Diocletian The Roman Emperor Diocletian was lauded for stabilizing the Roman empire in the 3rd Century. He is also known as the head of one of the most aggressive persecutions of Christians in the Roman Empire, but his efforts failed with the rise of Constantine in 324. After a while, he got tired of ruling and decided to retire to Split, where he built his palace. I don’t know if Diocletian’s Palace complex can be called “ruins”, it is beautifully preserved. As fate would have it, the complex was forgotten. The palace is built in the form of imperial Roman villas. To the East of the palace is the Porta Argentea (Silver Gate) which leads to the Plain of King Tomislac and the famous Peristyle (a court surrounded by columns). Diocletian’s Mausoleum: This is now the Cathedral of St. Doimus and it is located on the East side of the peristyle. Do not miss out on this building. You can visit the Mausoleum (today’s Cathedral of St Doimus dedicated to St Mary) lies in the eastern part of the peristyle. The mausoleum has almost completely preserved its original octagonal form, encircled by 24 columns which supported the roof; the interior is round, with two rows of Corinthian columns and a frieze. A dome, once covered with mosaics, roofs the mausoleum. The monumental wooden gateposts and the stone pulpit from the 13th century represent the oldest monuments in the cathedral. The choir, constructed in the 18th century, is furnished with Romanesque seating from the 13th century and ornamented with a painting representing the Mother of God with the saints and donors. A small temple opposite the mausoleum, probably dedicated to Jupiter, became the baptistry in the early Middle Ages. Only the closed part of the temple (cella) with a richly decorated portal has been preserved; the interior is roofed with a barrel-coffered vault.
Diocletian Street runs from the Peristyle to the north at the Porta Aurea (Golden Gate); Agubio Palace, with a Gothic portal and inner yard is to the left. To the right, in Papaliceva Street, is the Papalic Palace (15th century), the most important example of Gothic architecture in Split.
Kresimir Street leads from the Peristyle to the Porta Ferrea (Iron Gate) in the west; Cindro Palace (17th century), the most beautiful Baroque palace in Split, lies on the right. Beyond the Iron Gate is the square Narodni Trg (Piaca), centre of the medieval commune and the liveliest square of the modern city. Of the Gothic houses which used to close the northern end of the square, only the Town Hall (1443), with a loggia in the ground floor, has survived.
In the early Middle Ages the town was built within the palace. Commercial prosperity of the 13th and the 14th centuries inspired more intensive building. The town spread outside the palace, and a new centre developed along the western walls of the palace, which was fortified in the 14th century; in the 17th century a new defence system with projecting bastions was erected. Just walking the streets around sunset in the old district of Split is an experience that you cannot forget for the rest of your life, especially when you begin to pass under the town gates, get a chance to see the cathedral or synagogue lit up against the night sky, or investigate any of the multiple museums that Split has to offer. You’re also going to want to make sure that you spend time checking out the ancient Roman ruins just a short distance away from Split proper – as these are some of the most fun and exciting things to do in Split, Croatia. You’ll get the chance to see an ancient basilica, amphitheater, and a number of other nearly perfectly preserved ruins that look just a little bit worse for wear then when they were originally constructed by Roman armies – a blast from the past that you are certainly going to appreciate. The Salona Travelers visiting Split often miss a trip to the ruins of the Roman city of Salona only five kilometers from the city as it has been overshadowed by the popular Diocletian’s Palace, built later. The first traces of life in Salona began in the first millennium BC when the Greeks set up a marketplace here. After the Romans conquered the region, a city was formed and became the capital city of the Roman province of Dalmatia. Other than vandalism by the Venetians, Salona was mostly destroyed in the 6th century during the invasions of the Avars and Slavs where after, the citizens of Salona took refuge in Diocletian’s Palace. Actually, Salona was Diocletian’s hometown before he retired to his new palace in Split. Amongst the impressive remains, you will find the tops of the arches of a 1st century aqueduct where water came in from the nearby River Jadro, as well as the relics of thermal baths used by Romans. In Salona you will find the magnificent remains of a 2nd century amphitheater, which was believed to have a capacity of up to 20,000 spectators. Unfortunately, Venetians destroyed the amphitheater in the 17th century, stripping it of marble to use for their palace. An interesting feature, unseen in other Roman amphitheaters, is that it has underground channels. Another fascinating site is the Manastirine, one of the largest open graveyards where early Christian martyrs were buried. Although archeological digs here are not complete, one thousand sarcophagi, burial chapels, and graves have been discovered, one believed to be that of Saint Domnius (Sv. Duje), patrol saint of Split and 3rd century bishop of Salona. By the entrance to the Manastirine is a sarcophagus with the remains of the 19th century Croatian archeologist Don Frane Bulić who devoted his career to the study of Early Christian artifacts, particularly those in Salona. Adjacent it’s the Tusclulum, once the base of Don Frane Bulić’s archeological work and today a museum. In the episcopal complex, you will also come across the ruins of Early Christian graveyards with basilicas from the 4th century. Next to the city walls is the oldest, ‘basilica of the five martyrs’ built over the graves of five martyrs; priest Asterius and four soldiers of the imperial guard. On the site, there is also a 5th century three-nave cathedral and an impressive octagonal baptistery. Other than the two basilicas to be seen in Salona, an additional eight have been discovered however, their movable monuments are now displayed in the Archaeological Museum of Split. Spend time down by the sea in Split Obviously, any time you are spending in the Mediterranean is going to be spent close to the sea – and you’re certainly going to want to get your fair share of beach action when you are in split. Some of the best travel tips for Split, Croatia revolve around the action that happens in the Mediterranean or at the markets that are set up down by the harbor. Not only will you find a bustling fish market that is active almost every single day of the week, but you’ll also find a number of incredible restaurants and the freshest food you’ve ever tasted! Combine all of this with a picturesque seafront promenade that acts as the “heart” of the town, and you’ll be able to really embrace all that this amazing city has to offer. Food is a big part of the culture in Split Food is always a big part of any culture, but especially here in Split. Croatian food has yet to really “catch on” in the United States (outside of some neighborhoods in the larger cities), but once you have a taste of the food here in this town you’ll have more than enough things to do in Split, Croatia! The food is amazing, the service friendly, and the dining experience something that you’ll never forget – especially if you’re lucky enough to eat by the sea with the sun coming up or the sun going down. Where to Eat in Split Kitchen5 It is located in a tiny street of the old town and has a main indoor dining room, open kitchen and patio in the back. We opted for outdoor seating since it was a lovely day. It was charming, clean, and away from the crowds. To my delight, our server spoke perfect English (most people in restaurants in Split do). While I advocate learning enough of a language whenever you travel so you can order food, Croatian (along with Hungarian) is one of the few languages that really kicks my butt, so English speaking servers are a plus. As we waited for our dishes, our sever brought over some tasty bread and gorgeous Parmesan. Things were looking promising. Antonio opted for the burger 80kn (around $12USD). Why a burger in the land of fish – he is allergic to shellfish, so he stays away from seafood to stay on the safe side. On a positive note, the beef was outstanding. This is notable because Split is known for fish, not beef. The burger could have improved in a few ways: a larger portion (the burger was slightly larger than a slider), a better bun (this bun was falling apart), the temperature…we asked for medium rare and got medium/well. Good beginnings, but far off target. The fries that came with the burger were nice. I ordered the Tuna steak with fried sea anemone. The tuna was delicious. Seriously good. Perfectly cooked, tasty and juicy, and it was huge. I did not get to finish this dish. I had never had sea anemone, I could take it or leave it. It was as good as anything fried was, but did not impress me. There were also some super tasty veggies that came with the dish. I was pleasantly pleased with my choices. Overall, it was a nice meal…expensive for Split, and having just come in from Tuscany where pretty much every meal was delicious, somewhat disappointing – do not let this stop you from going. Stick to seafood and I think you will do alright. The restaurant has a lot of potential, and is definitely one of the best places in the city. The meal cost $30 USD with one bottle of sparkling water. Kitchen5 is located at Kraj Svete Marije 1, Split Croatia +38521553377
