One of the great benefits of writing for FriendsEAT is that I have great access. Earlier this year I got to meet the team behind Only Lyon. They are in charge of letting the world know just how amazing Lyon is (it is, I’ve been obsessed with it for years & have been there 4 times). This year, when Antonio surprised me with a trip to France for our 10th not-married anniversary, I figured I’d reach out to Only Lyon to see if they could hook me up with some very special experiences. I’m thrilled to say they did and they went beyond my expectations.
I was set up to take a tour of Les Halles de Paul Bocuse with none other than Chef Davy Tissot of Villa Florentine. This is kinda-sorta-seriously special. Let me tell you why. The head chef at Les Terrases de Lyon, Davy Tissot, has been making a name for himself, and his restaurant, by bringing French cuisine to another level. In 2004, Chef Tissot was given the Meilleur Ouvrier de France (Best Worker of France) award and he has continued showing why he deserves that designation ever since. In 2010, he received the Grand Chef Relais and Chateux award, just six years after becoming head chef at Les Terrases de Lyon.
We got to chat with Chef Tissot as he walked us through Les Halles and as he introduced us to his favorite purveyors there. He told us that he did not grow up with designs to enter the culinary arena. In fact, he let us know that his original dream was to be an athlete. But when an injury took him off the field for good, Davy needed to find a new ambition. He credits a combination of factors for turning him to the world of cooking: the need for a challenge (makes sense with his athletic background), a desire to see others happy and his grandmother’s Sicilian heritage. After considering these three drives, creating gourmet cuisine seemed like the natural choice. Chef Tissot learned from the best, including Paul Bocuse, Regis Marcon, Philippe Gauvreau, Roger Jaloux and Jacques Maximin. He took the knowledge imparted by these prestigious chefs, and now presents his skills at Les Terrases de Lyon at the Villa Florentine Hotel (fitting with his Italian heritage). It sits atop the hill of Fourviere in Lyon (perfect if you’re an architecture and church buff like me – you can check out the Roman ruins AND the Fourviere church). If you’re staying in old Lyon, you can grab the funicular and be there in no time. Needless to say, it’s highly recommended.
Les Halles De Paul Bocuse
I had visited Les Halles de Paul Bocuse before. I had actually been there a lot of times. Les Halles is located just a few steps away from the apartment I rent every time I stay in the city. But with Chef Tissot it was a completely different experience. I got to know each vendor and Chef Tissot gave us his secrets on where to buy and how to buy at this gorgeous market place which boasts over 6o boutique vendors.
The History of the Halles de Lyon
Before the Halles de Lyon was built, the area hosted the Place de Cordelier, which was built back in 1859. It too was a covered market, constructed to help traders conduct their business and serve the people of Lyon in buying their food. After more than a hundred years of use, time took its toll on the Place de Cordelier. New regulations also made the aisles too small, along with other issues. So in 1971, the Place de Cordelier was torn down and the Halles de Lyons constructed in its placed. It has been serving the people of Lyon in a manner fitting of its predecessor ever since.
The Site Itself
The Halles de Lyon covers 12,500 sq. meters and goes up 3 levels. There are shops throughout, though the second floor features restaurants as well as bathrooms. This means that you can spend your morning shopping, take a quick break with a glass of wine and some oysters, go back to shopping, and meet your friends afterwards for a nice lunch. You can find almost anything that has to do with local Lyonnaise cuisine including, pork scratching, sausages, dumplings snails and all types of cheese. But the Halles de Lyon is also well known for its amazing selection of international foods as well.
Paul Bocuse
Currently, the official name of the Halles de Lyon is Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse. This additional name refers to the internationally known French chef, Paul Bocuse, who is culinary royalty not only in Lyon, but throughout the world (haven’t met him yet…but soon…very soon). The name lends a certain amount of cache to the establishment and is one of the reasons so many tourists come to visit. And once you’ve walked in the door, it’s vendors, restaurants, and stalls will make you fall in love. We also got to meet Bocuse’s court, the men and women that make up Lyon’s culinary royalty.
Our Visit to Les Halles De Paul Bocuse with Chef David Tissot
I’ve done my best to translate what everyone had to say. Just keep in mind, my French is good…but definitely not perfect. If you know French, please feel free to correct me 🙂
Chef Tissot's Tour & Recommendations
LE BOULANGER DE L’ILE BARBE: Philippe-Marc Jocteur is a gorgeous boulanger (baker). His shop carries everything from baguettes, to, to . But the piece de resistance is his tarte aux pralines. This classic Lyonnaise dessert is made of butter, sugar, almond powder, creme and French pink pralines. Chef Tissot told us that it is the best in Lyon, and we agree. This is one of those desserts that the savory lover will enjoy. It was not at all cloying, but elegant and sophisticated. The crust was buttery, crumbly and delicious. I tasted others throughout the city that were good, some that were horrible, but this was definitely the best in town.
“Here is the best tarte praline in Lyon. The tarte praline is set on shortbread and, made with almonds that are mixed with creme, milk, and sugar.” – Chef Davy Tissot.
Hours of Operation: Tuesday- Sunday 8:00 am – 7pm. Sunday & holidays 8:00 am to 2pm.
LA MERE RICHARD: With over fifty years of cheese history, La Mere Richard is the authority when it comes to farm products. The family has passed on their knowledge from generation to generation. The shop carries only the best and most reputable producers of local cheeses from the most coveted AOC’s. You want to get your Saint-Marcellin here. Renée Richard is the queen of cheese at Les Halles. She spoke to us a bit about her family history and about the family specialty:
“Saint Marcellin is the specialty of Lyon and of La Mere Richard. It’s a little cheese made of cow’s milk that is fabricated in the area. This St. Marcellin is super creamy, and well aged so it will last for weeks in the right temperature and humidity. It is truly “the” Lyonaisse cheese. Now it is both the cheese of bistros, bouchons, AND of Michelin starred restaurants in Lyon.” – Renée Richard
What does St. Marcellin taste like? It’s elegant and mild. As it develops in the mouth it becomes nutty and fruity. It’s soft and spreadable and delicious. Try it with a richer chardonnay or a nice light red.
CELLERIER CHEESE SHOP: Cellerier is more than just a cheese shop. It is a collection of shops that include a cheese monger, butcher, charcuterie (a sort of delicatessen – but for really good cured meats), shellfish vendor, sweet shop, AND an Italian shop in case you’re craving amazing lasagna. I have spent a lot of time at Cellerier during all my trips to Lyon, but going there with Chef Tissot and meeting his friend Denis Bert, cheese monger AND ager, made it so much better for me. I think we spent the most amount of time here. He tasted us on lots of delicious cheeses like Comte, Fourme d’Ambert, and Eppoises. What I was most excited about was tasting real Mimolette which is sadly illegal in the USA. Yup…illegal cheese. We’re allowed to take guns to bars, but we’re not allowed to eat delicious French cheese because of itty bitty mites….anyway, I am glad to report that Mimolette is delish.
Denis gave us a brief explanation of Mimolette: “An explanation of Mimolette. There are two Mimolettes in the world, the French and the Hollandaise. The one from Holland has an outer casing made of paraffin. French Mimolette has a natural crust. The affinage (ageing) is done with “acariens de fromage” or cheese mites. (These are my words, not Deni’s – The mites are a source of controversy in the USA because, quite frankly, we’re kinda idiots here when it comes to our food.) Mimolette is misunderstood in France, because people think that Mimolette is from Holland. The one from Holland is not terrible, but the French is superior.