After visiting Montepulciano for the second time, I decided it was time to cover it here. I had been slightly hesitant because last time I was here four years ago it was over run by Sparkly Vampire loving teenage girls (Thanks a lot Twilight – because vampires would hang out in a place where sunshine lasts from about 5am to 9pm). Anyway, the hype around the book has fizzled and I found this gorgeous Tuscan hill town to be absolutely intoxicating. I’m leaving tomorrow and I am bummed….FYI if you just want the basic tips, scroll to the bottom of the blog post.
About Montepulciano
Montepulciano is a charming city located in the heart of the Senese region in Italy. Surrounded by the stunning Val d’Orcia, Val di Chiana, and Crete Senesi, Montepulciano is the perfect base for exploring the surrounding areas, including Chianciano Terme, Chiusi, Cortona, Florence, Montalcino, and Siena (they are all wonderful).
At the heart of Montepulciano lies the Piazza Grande, where some of the city’s most important buildings are located. These include the Palazzo Contuci, a tasting room and home to the Contucci family; the Duomo, or Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore; the Palazzo Poliziano, home to Angelo Poliziano; and the Palazzo Comunale, also known as the Town Hall.
The Palazzo Comunale is an impressive building with a striking resemblance to the Ufizzi in Florence. Designed by Michelozzo di Bartolomeo, the building features decorative crenellations, a reminder of Montepulciano’s powerful past. Visitors can even climb to the top of the Palazzo for breathtaking views of the city.
Just outside the city walls, across from the popular restaurant La Grotta, stands the church of San Biagio. This stunning building was designed by Antonio da Sangallo the Elder and features a travertine stone sanctuary, two bell towers, and a beautiful dome. It is a stunning example of Renaissance architecture, not to be missed by any visitor to Montepulciano.
What To Do In Montepulciano
1. Stroll the city and enjoy its palazzos and over 2,500 years of history.
2. Go shopping. There are tons of artisan shops for you to choose from from jewelry, leather goods, ceramics, and much more. The stuff you get here…you can’t get anywhere else…do not miss the mosaic guy.
3. Check out the cellars, some cool stuff under these restaurants, shops, and houses.
4. Eat – I have recommendations on everything you need to try later on in this blog.
5. Learn to cook. There are tons of cooking classes, you can even learn to make your own Pici.
6. Climb the town hall for stunning views.
7. Go for a nature walk at Montepulciano lake. There are some amazing animals there, and tons of birds for those who like to bird watch.
8. Wineries, wineries, wineries.
9. Hit up the Termes, there is one in Montepulciano…but there are tons in Chianciano Terme.
10. If you come at the right time, find out about the grape harvest. Some wineries will let you take part.
11. If that does not work, there’s also the olive harvest. Yum!
12. Bravio delle Botti: this is an insane race where a pair of guys push up 150 lb wine barrels up the hills to the main square. It takes place the last Sunday of August (sadly, we missed it).
13. Watch sunset, after sunset, after sunset.
Top Wineries To Visit In Montepulciano
I’m kind of a wino…and Montepulciano made me incredibly happy. All those wines I love, but hurt when purchasing in the US were so nicely priced here…so plan to enjoy wineries, tasting rooms, and to have some jewels sent back home. Here are a few you should visit (note, prices may be different when you read this post):
Avignonesi: This is one of the most well known names in the area. You can book yourself a lunch & tour for €95 or a tasting for €15. Avignonesi is open for tasting and tours from Monday to Friday 9am – 6pm, Saturday and Sunday 11am – 6pm. You must make reservations if you want to have lunch there. They speak English.
+39 0578 724304 or [email protected]
Boscarelli: This is a family run winery that is known for its outstanding wines. They have various options when it comes to the experience.
€7 Tasting: a 30 minute guided tasting to teach you about Sangiovese.
€10 Tasting: you get a full tasting (6 wines) teaching you about the different grapes, denominations, and processes.
€14 Tasting: visit the vineyards & winery to learn about the family, winery, and wines. This takes about an hour.
€25 Tour: this one takes about 2 hours and gives you a more in depth look into the winery. You also get to taste special vintages, for this one you must make reservations.
+39 0578 767608 [email protected]
Dei: Lovely winery and a great value for the visit. It is run by Catarina, she is the grand daughter of the founder of the winery, and you can see her passion. The winery offers a €10 tour.
+39 0578 716878
Il Macchione: This is a boutique winery of limited production. Winery tours are performed by the winery owner (very intimate). The tour costs €35, but you get to keep one of the bottles that you tasted.
+39 0578 75 85 95
Great Wine Tasting Rooms In Montepulciano
As a good New Yorker, I don’t like to drive. I also don’t like to drink & drive. These tasting rooms will save you from arguing with your SO about who will be the designated driver so you can both have a good time:
Cantina Contucci: Via del Teatro, 1. A lovely experience, the guides are friendly and fun, and they make you feel like family. Adamo is wonderful. +39 0578 757006 or [email protected]
Cantina di Talosa: Via Talosa, 8. It’s located between 2 of the oldest buildings in the city, the Palazzo Tarugi and Palazzo Sinatti. Drop by to check out the ageing cellar and to taste some delicious wine. [email protected] or +39 0578757929
Crociani: Via del Poliziano, 15. Another lovely adventure where you get to see the barrels where the wine ages. Totally worth the walk up the hill.
What To Eat In Montepulciano
1. Pici: This pasta originated in Siena, but has taken over all of Tuscany. It is thick, susbtantial, and absolutely delicious. You will see it served as briciole (breadcrumbs), aglione (a spicy garlic tomato sauce), boscaiola (porcini mushrooms), ragù (not the crappy American sauce, but a gorgeous meat based sauce), lots of game, cinghiale (wild boar – love it), lepre (hare – don’t tell the little ones they’re eating bugs), and anatra (duck).
2. Truffles: Different truffles are in season at different times, so ask if/what is in season when you sit to eat. The best part about eating truffles in Tuscany, is that they are a quarter of the price of what you pay once they are imported to the states…so enjoy.
3. Chiangale: Wild boar is a staple of Tuscan cooking.
4. Pheasant: You will see lots of pheasant on the menu here. Turns out there are places where you can go pheasant hunting in Tuscany…I had no idea. While I’m not the hunting type of gal…I am the eating kinda gal & this bird is delicious.
5. Guinea Fowl: Yet another tasty bird. Get this one at the better restaurants since it can dry out easily.
6. Chianina Beef: Yummy…seriously, this is awesome beef. It is served everywhere and makes for awesome tartare, burgers, carpaccio. The breed is strictly regulated and TRULY free range. The Tuscans aren’t messing around here.
7. Bacalao: As a rule, you don’t eat fish in Montepulciano. Let’s apply a little common sense here. It is a hill town. Fish don’t live on hills (ok..yes – rivers & lakes…but we’re on a mountain). This is where Baccalà comes in. Baccalà became popular because it was easily preserved and could last a long time in the Tuscan hill towns. You will see it in multiple restaurants and it is quite tasty, so go ahead and give it a try.
8. Zucchini Flowers: These are absolutely delicious…and while not exclusive to Tuscany, you should eat them whenever you get a chance. You can get them fried & stuffed with ricotta, fried into an omelet, in a pasta dish (my favorite preparation).
9. Gelato: My favorite spot was Cafe Polizzano. Their gelato was delish…but I encourage you to try all the other gelato shops in the city.
10. Spiked Coffee: Also at Cafe Polizzano. Not only does it feel like you stepped into a time machine…they serve the most delicious spiked coffees. Grab a table on the terrace & enjoy.
Easy Day Trips From Montepulciano
Montepulciano is in the heart of Tuscany. This means that it is a great spot for you to get to know Toscana. One caveat…you will need a car. While there are buses that run from town to town, they aren’t the easiest thing to work with. These are some towns I would highly recommend you visit during your Montepulciano stay:
Arezzo: About 30 miles away from Montepulciano sits the town of Arezzo. It is known for its Etruscan origins (as are a lot of the towns in the region) and its lovely Medieval buildings. If you are into art, check out the Piero della Francesca frescoes, the Duomo, and the city center. If you’re into antiques, schedule your trip for the first weekend of the month when Italy’s most influential antiques dealers sell their wares.
Chianciano Terme: Dubbed the City of Health for a reason. This spa resort town is built on mineral water deposits. They are said to be healing waters. The town itself is pretty, not like the hill towns, but you’re not here to go sight seeing. Book yourself a day at the spa. They are ginormous and you will come out feeling like a million bucks (although a milly is not really that much anymore).
Cortona: I love Cortona. I loved it when I stepped foot there four years ago, and I love it now. It is one of the 12 cities of the Etruscan League and another that is characterized by Medieval construction more so than Renaissance structures. The views of the Val di Chiana are some of the best from Cortona. When you visit, make sure to check out San Francesco, San Domenico, and the Palazzo Casali. Cortona is 45 minutes away from Montepulciano.
Montalcino: You’ve heard of Brunello di Montalcino. If this in itself is not reason enough to go, I’ll give you a few more. Montalcino is a lovely medieval town that overlooks the Val d’Orcia. It has an impressive fortress, tons of churches (I love churches), and a great Civic Museum. Montalcino is 45 minutes from Montepulciano.
Pienza: The birthplace of Pope Pius II was lucky to have him. He invested in this village and made it into a proper town. Most of the city was touched by Bernardo Rossellino, an Italian Renaissance sculptor and architect. This means that this town has a very different feel than most of the cities in the area. Pienza is the home of Pecorino (mmm Cheese)…and if you visit in September, you can enjoy the Feast of Cacio, a feast dedicated to this famed cheese. Pienza is 20 minutes from Montepulciano.
Sarteano: Sarteano will soon have its own post. You NEED to visit this town for the fact that one of the coolest Etruscan tombs is situated here. This town is more untouched than the rest. On our visit there were only 2 other tourists and they happened to be there for the Tomb as well. That being said, this is one of the cities you can discover before anyone else does. It is just as lovely as the others, and it will belong to you. Sarteano is 30 minutes away from Montepulciano.
Siena: I liked Siena, didn’t fall in love…but many others did, so I figured I’d include it. This is the home of the Palio (the famous, but controversial horse race) which is held on July 2nd August 16. There are many museums, churches, and many nice restaurants if you decide to visit. Siena is an hour away from Montepulciano.
Supermarkets in Montepulciano
Conad: This is your real deal supermarket. It has everything you need (even stuff to make American style burgers). If you can’t find it in the city…go here.
Grocery stores: There are multiple grocery stores in Montepulciano. Our favorite was a few doors up from the church of St. Augustino. His prices were fair (compared to the places up the hill) and he had all the basic needs like toilet paper, eggs, pasta, wine, etc…
Where to Stay in Montepulciano
Stefania’s Apartment: We stayed at a gorgeous 2 bedroom apartment we found on Airbnb and it cost us a little over $100 per night. Our host was lovely and as soon as we walked in you could see just how much she loves the place. She purchased this 1,000 year old building and renovated it to keep its charm with all the modern amenities. It has great showers (yup, 2 baths), a huge kitchen, and the most gorgeous views of the Tuscan hills. Highly recommended. If you haven’t yet used airbnb, click here for my tutorial on how to pick the perfect rental.
Tips For Visiting Montepulciano
1. If you go in the Summer, wear natural fabrics. Montepulciano is a city of stone. This means heat gets trapped in the city. You will be hot. This also means you will need a hat and plenty of sunscreen.
2. Wear flat comfortable shoes. I’m a stiletto loving kinda gal, but in Montepulciano, this would be a death sentence. The grade on the hills is steep, and cobblestones are very difficult to walk on. Keep this in mind as you pack.
3. When purchasing wine, buy it at the top of the hill or closer to where you are staying. You don’t want to carry wine uphill.
4. Parking: park outside of the city proper with the P signs. It is about 2 Euro per hour. Ask about secret free parking spots (like the school during Summer).
5. Cars that aren’t for the residents aren’t allowed in the city center unless it is before 8am. Leave your car outside of town.
6. If you’re staying within the city walls, rent an apartment. Check airbnb or local renters. Prices will vary.
7. You can get awesome spring water at the bottom of the hill right above the tourist office. This super tasty spring water costs 5 cents. Save yourself time & enjoy this inexpensive luxury.
8. Locals are awesome. They mostly speak English and are totally willing to help if you need it. Be nice to them, they aren’t just locals, their families have been here for centuries.
9. You can take the bus up the top of the hill. If you have kids or bags, this is totally the way to go.
10. Montepulciano is NOT a party town. If you come, be respectful. If you’re looking to party, go to another town.
11. If you’re tired from walking, you can sit on anyone’s stoop/stairs…they won’t mind as long as you move out of the way when they come out.
12. If you’re looking to rent long term or purchase in the area, there are some very well priced Montepulciano properties and real estate brokers on the hill. Stop in and ask. You will want to ask for a home that is fully restored…trust me.