Blanca Valbuena

Dining at Daniel

I am a huge fan of Daniel Boulud’s restaurants. I frequent DB Bistro (for their amazing burger), Bar Boulud (for everything) and would frequent Daniel if it would not lead me to poverty. While Per Se remains my favorite restaurant in Manhattan, Daniel’s three Michelin stars are well deserved and I look forward to my next visit. . When you go to Daniel, you have a choice of a three course tasting menu which includes wine pairings ($110), a six course tasting menu ($185 or $290 with wine), an eight course tasting menu ($205 or $335 with wine) or dining a la carte. We opted to go with the six course menu with wine. The amouse bouche was a trio of carrot that set the tone for the evening. I could tell Daniel would be a fantastic dining experience. For the first course we had an option of either a Duck Terrine with Marcona Almond Barberry gelee or the Guinea Hen and turnip mosaic. I opted for the second. It had lines of winter black truffles intersecting it, pickled honshimeji (a delicious miniature mushroom that was heaven in a bite – you see this in the middle of the plate hidden by the greens) and young leeks. This dish was decadence personified. Little slices of baguette were a great conductor for the guinea hen. As soon as we had finished them, our server was back with more, not a bite was wasted. The wine pairing was J.J. Prum’s Riesling Kabinett “Craacher Himmelreich” 2008. The sommelier must have read my mind when selecting this wine. I am in love with the Prums. The wine had a peachy nose, incredible minerality and a great acidity; the ideal wine for the dish. Course two was a choice of either a trio of Scottish salmon or the Peekytoe Crab salad with pineapple chayote, cilantro oil and coriander tuile. Again, I went for the second choice. This crab, long thrown aside by fishermen has become quite popular on high end dining menus. It is said Daniel Boulud had a big hand in making it a popular item on menus. I can see why. The crab has a clean fresh taste, slightly sweet (nicely complimented by the pineapple chayote). Knoll’s Gruner Veltliner Federspiel “Loibenberg” 2008 made for a nice compliment to the dish. Its freshness and cripsness did not overpower the dish, but enhanced the natural sweetness of the crab. This was my favorite course of the evening. The Tomme D’Abondance and Morbier Ravioli with hen of the woods mushrooms, artichoke, winter roots and lomo Iberico. Tomme D’Abondance is the most amazing cheese. This unpausterized cows cheese is slightly fruity, the texture is grainy but manages to be light, supple and velvety. Once this cheese is put next to Morbier, which is rich and creamy and laced with a pleasant bitterness, you end up with heaven. Each bite into the ravioli, as the cheeses bursted onto the tongue were miniature moments of ecstasy. Then a tiny bit of the lomo Iberico would sneak in and bring the experience to a different level. This dish made the entire experience worth it. If you head to Daniel Do Not Skip This Dish. Next, for me, was the Slow Baked Dover Sole with sweet Maine shrimp, crispy polenta, stewed black trumpet mushrooms and chorizo oil. What happens when you put all my favorite ingredients into a dish. This is it. The fish was light and beautifully textured. The chorizo oil added just that little bit of sin to take the dish to the wild side. The sweet shrimp, next to the chorizo oil was lovely. The wine pairing was Copain “Tous Ensemble” Pinot Noir 2008. This is Pinot the way I like it. Balanced cherry on the nose, a little bit of earthiness. Love the audacity of the sommelier pairing this lovely red with this delicate fish. I have to admit that by the time I got to the next dish I was pretty close to being defeated by the tasting menu. As much as I love them, they can be arduous work. I was prepared to battle with my Duo of Beef: Black angus short ribs with beet marmalade, seared Waygu tenderloin, braised Savoy cabbage, crispy chick pea panisse and “Bordelais” jus. The dish was impeccable, but I was nearing fullness. If I perhaps had skipped that bite of the panisse I may have enjoyed it quite more. The wine, J.L. Chave Selection Offerus 2007. Was gorgeous. The progression of the wine pairings was thoroughly thought out. For dessert I chose the Spice Poached Bosc Pear with gingerbread biscuit, red wine gelee and ginger ice cream. Even though I had a hard time with the previous course, I had no trouble with dessert. Perhaps it was the wine, perhaps it was my sweet tooth; either way dessert was delicious. Looking at the picture, it reminds me a bit of Mickey Mouse. While I was eating it, I thought it sculptural and refined. The red wine gelee was my favorite part of this dessert. Reminded me of caviar. Truly beautiful plating and a gorgeous piece of sweetness. As if all this was not enough, the restaurant brought out a basket of the most delicious madelaines. I wanted to eat the entire basket, but only ate two. The Chateau Pajzos 5 Puttonyos Aszu Tokaji was a 2000 vintage. Viscous, elegant and delectable. Daniel is all it is cracked up to be. Fancy, flavorful and fabulous. While Per Se still takes spot #1 in my heart, I think Daniel takes a close second. Daniel is located at 60 East 65th Street on the Upper East Side of New York City (212) 288-0033

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