The Dalmatian coast of Croatia is heavenly for fish lovers. Thankfully most towns on the coast have what is known as either a Perkarija or Ribarnica; basically a fish market. Fishermen (I did not see many women) bring their goods to the market where they are weighed, cut, and sold. The earlier you arrive, the better choice you have…but if you’re looking for a deal, you can arrive later and get some killer deals. I noticed that the most popular fish were picarels, sprats, mackerels, sardines and anchovies. If you hate cleaning fish, there’s always a guy at each market that will clean your fishies for about 10-20 KN (depending on how much Croatian you know and how good you can haggle).
My favorite was the Ribarnica in Split which has been around since 1843 right outside Diocletian’s Palace. Just like the majority of fish markets in Croatia, this one opens early; around 6:30 am and closes at 2pm. A local restaurant called Nostromo takes over the outdoor space at night to add more tables.
The fish at this market are in the height of freshness. You can see them moving as their heads get cut off by sellers. These markets would never pass in the US. Most merchants use no gloves and flies enjoy themselves as they hop from fish to fish. Most fish merchants enjoy their cancer sticks as patrons haggle for the best prices. But I think that we are overly sanitized in the US. You can pick up any of these fish and be sure that there is no health hazard to you.
There are two sections to the Ribarnica, one outside and one inside. Inside is where the action really takes place. Make sure to wear non-slip shoes and pants that will not touch the floors. They are icky and sticky and worth the smell. The following pictures will show you some of the fish available at Croatia’s amazing fish markets.
