Addicted to Lyon (And Lyon’s Food)

By now, you should know that I have an unhealthy addiction to Lyon. Maybe not so unhealthy, but it is one of my two favorite cities in France (I am always vacillating between moving to either Lyon or Nice). It may have started with my love of food. The first time I went to Lyon was because I had heard that Lyon was the capital of world cuisine. It was, but my addiction grew from food to art to history to culture and I keep going back, year after year. If you haven’t been, here’s a little appetizer to whet your palate <a title=”How to travel to and eat in Lyon Cheap” href=”http://blog.friendseat.com/lyon-france-travel-tourism/” target=”_blank”>(and if you want my tips on traveling there on the cheap – check my earlier blog post – Lyon is amazingly affordable)</a>. <strong><a href=”http://blog.friendseat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Lyon.jpg”><img class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-139676″ alt=”Lyon” src=”http://blog.friendseat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Lyon.jpg” width=”940″ height=”577″ /></a>LYON BITES</strong> <ul> <li>Lyon is France’s 2nd largest city</li> <li>It has 2.6 million inhabitants</li> <li>There are 120,000 students (this means it is a young, vibrant city)</li> <li>It is a <a title=”Lyon Unesco Information” href=”http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/872″ target=”_blank”>UNESCO </a>site</li> <li>Lyon came in 9th in Ernst &amp; Young’s list of Europes Most Attractive cities</li> <li>Paul Bocuse &amp; Christian Tetedoie are based out of Lyon</li> <li>Paul Bocuse’s Les Halles is in Lyon (and it is awesome)</li> <li>There are more than 2,000 restaurants in Lyon</li> <li>There are 14 Michelin starred restaurants in Lyon and even more in the outskirts</li> </ul> <strong><a href=”http://blog.friendseat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Les-Halles-Meat-Counter-Lyon.jpg”><img class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-141844″ alt=”Les Halles Meat Counter Lyon” src=”http://blog.friendseat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Les-Halles-Meat-Counter-Lyon.jpg” width=”800″ height=”191″ /></a>FOOD</strong> Lyon is synonymous with gastronomy.  As I mentioned above, Lyon is home &amp; home base to some of the world’s most respected chefs, the best restaurants, and the best food in all of France. I’ll give you a little glimpse at the cuisine of Lyon. <a href=”http://blog.friendseat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Paul-Bocuse-Lyon-Chef.jpg”><img class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-141846″ alt=”Paul Bocuse Lyon Chef” src=”http://blog.friendseat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Paul-Bocuse-Lyon-Chef.jpg” width=”965″ height=”617″ /></a>Let’s start off with<strong> <a href=”http://www.bocuse.fr/flash-uk.aspx?idwsglangue=2″ target=”_blank”>Paul Bocuse</a></strong>. If you’re not familiar with Chef Bocuse, you’ve got a little homework to do…but I’ll make it a little simple for you.  Paul Bocuse was named <em>Chef of the </em><em>Century</em> by the Gault-Millau Guide AND by The Culinary Institute of America. As if that was not enough, Paul Bocuse has maintained a 3 star Michelin rating for over 45 years. <a href=”http://blog.friendseat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/entrance-les-halles-de-paul-bocuse-lyon.jpg”><img class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-141848″ alt=”entrance les halles de paul bocuse lyon” src=”http://blog.friendseat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/entrance-les-halles-de-paul-bocuse-lyon.jpg” width=”800″ height=”552″ /></a>Paul Bocuse also recently opened the <strong>Les Halles de </strong><strong>Paul Bocuse Food Hall</strong>, my favorite place to grab a bite, glass of wine, and meet some locals in Lyon. Les Halles actually have a really long history. In 1859 they were located at Place des Cordeliers, and it was a covered market just like many Les Halles throughout France. The building fell into disrepair and in the 70’s the market was relocated to the <em>Part-Dieu</em> neighborhood (conveniently close to the train station &amp; there’s a bus that stops right in front of Les Halles). In 2006, they received a facelift &amp; the name of Paul Bocuse in his honor. What’s there? 56 shops where you will find some of the best products in all of France. (<a href=”http://blog.friendseat.com/les-halles-de-paul-bocuse-lyon-france/” target=”_blank”>If you want to check out my pics of Les Halles &amp; learn more about their shops, click here – I was just there this past March</a>). <a href=”http://blog.friendseat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/oysters-saint-antoine-market-lyon.jpg”><img class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-141851″ alt=”oysters saint antoine market lyon” src=”http://blog.friendseat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/oysters-saint-antoine-market-lyon.jpg” width=”755″ height=”449″ /></a>The Paul Bocuse Food Hall can do a job on your wallet. If you’ve been overspending, check out the<a href=”http://www.lyon.fr/lieu/marches/marche-alimentaire-saint-antoine-celestins.html” target=”_blank”><strong> Saint-Antoine food market</strong> </a>(it’s located at quai Saint-Antoine on the Saone, in the 2nd arrondissement). It’s a great little farmer’s makret and it’s open every day except for Mondays. <a href=”http://blog.friendseat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/maitre-cuisinier-de-france-christian-tetedoie-lyon.png”><img class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-141853″ alt=”maitre cuisinier de france christian tetedoie lyon” src=”http://blog.friendseat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/maitre-cuisinier-de-france-christian-tetedoie-lyon.png” width=”600″ height=”397″ /></a>One cannot talk about Lyon without mentioning <a href=”http://www.tetedoie.com/” target=”_blank”><strong>Christian Tetedoie</strong></a>. He’s so impressive, that at the tender age of 17, he was named “<em>Meilleur Apprenti de France</em>”. He honed his skills with the famed Paul Bocuse, Georges Blanc and even worked the kitchens of the Elysee where he was responsible of the presidential meals. He went on to earn the title of <em>Meilleur Ouvrier de France</em>, and his Michelin star in the year 2000. Chef Tetedoie is also the president of the largest associations of chefs, “Les Maîtres Cuisiniers de France”. While the legends reside in Lyon, there is a<strong> younger group</strong> that is defining the future of Lyon’s cuisine. The best part about this is that many of these chefs offer some awesome lunch deals. You can dine like a king, and pay a portion of the price. Who to look out for?Philippe Gauvreau, <a title=”Le Jean Moulin” href=”http://blog.friendseat.com/review-gregoire-baratiers-le-jean-moulin-restaurant-lyon-bourse/” target=”_blank”> Grégoire Baratier</a>, Mathieu Vianney, Agira Nishigaki, and Davy Tissot. <a href=”http://blog.friendseat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Institute-Paul-bocuse.jpg”><img class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-141860″ alt=”Institute Paul bocuse” src=”http://blog.friendseat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Institute-Paul-bocuse.jpg” width=”1024″ height=”680″ /></a>If you’re looking to get your culinary career started, you may want to apply to the <a title=”Paul Bocuse Institute” href=”http://www.institutpaulbocuse.com/us/” target=”_blank”><strong>Paul Bocuse Institute</strong> </a>which trains chefs from all over the world…but be warned, you better know your stuff before heading over there. Lyon’s <strong>Hôtel Dieu</strong>, a former hospital (and historic treasure) is being converted into a space that will devote 15,000 square meters (around 50,000 sq ft) to food. The building’s theme will be nutrition and health in honor of the location. The building will host cooking classes, conferences, and performances. I can’t wait to go (this is scheduled to open in 2017). <a href=”http://blog.friendseat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/bouchon-lyon-france.jpg”><img class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-141855″ alt=”bouchon lyon france” src=”http://blog.friendseat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/bouchon-lyon-france.jpg” width=”700″ height=”394″ /></a>When you’re in Lyon, make sure to ask about the ‘<strong>Mères Lyonnaises</strong>’.  Lyon’s mothers started when in the late 19th Century, affluent families were forced to let go of their home cooks.  These <em>mother’s </em>had to figure out what to do. They ended up opening restaurants to serve Lyon’s silk workers. Some say that the Mères Lyonnaises were the mothers of Lyon’s gastronomy. One of these <em>Mères, Mère Brazier, </em>even became the first woman to receive a Michelin Star…she was so good that Paul Bocuse apprenticed under her before becoming the legend he now is. <a href=”http://blog.friendseat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/bouchon-lyonnais.jpg”><img class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-141857″ alt=”bouchon lyonnais” src=”http://blog.friendseat.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/bouchon-lyonnais.jpg” width=”986″ height=”577″ /></a>If you are like most of us, you may not be able to afford all 14 of Lyon’s Michelin starred restaurants. Luck for you and me, there are <strong>bouchons. </strong>They are Lyon’s typical restaurants. They were originally attached to inns and would serve wine when food was not being served. Travel at the time was done by stage coach. Horses would be rubbed down with straw while their passengers and owners would enjoy a glass (probably a few glasses) of wine and a bite at the bouchons. You’ll recognize bouchons by their signs, which are marked by a truss of straw. If you happen upon an old school bouchon, ask for a  “<em>mâchon</em>”, a snack consumed outside normal eating hours. This will consist of charcuterie (cured meats) accompanied by a glass (or two) of Beaujolais. If you’ve been a good boy or girl this year, and have saved up to collect some stars, here’s the list of 2013’s Michelin Starred Restaurants: <strong>TROIS ETOILES (THREE MICHELIN STARS)</strong> <ul> <li>Paul Bocuse – Paul Bocuse</li> </ul> <strong>DEUX ETOILES (TWO MICHELIN STARS) </strong> <ul> <li>La Mère Brazier – Mathieu Viannay</li> <li>Auberge de l’Ile – Jean-Christophe Ansanay-Alex</li> <li>La Rotonde – Philippe Gauvreau</li> </ul> <strong>UNE ETOILE (ONE MICHELIN STAR)</strong> <ul> <li>Pierre Orsi</li> <li>Les Terrasses de Lyon – Davy Tissot</li> <li>Christian Têtedoie</li> <li>Les Trois Dômes</li> <li>Le Gourmet de Sèze</li> <li>Larivoire</li> <li>La Maison Clovis – Clovis Kory</li> <li>Au 14 Février – Tsuyoshi Arai</li> <li>Les Loges – Anthony Bonnet</li> <li>l’Effervescence – Christophe Hubert</li> </ul> <strong>NON-STARRED RESTAURANTS W/ GREAT DEALS*</strong> <ul> <li>Le Jean Moulin – 17€ Lunch</li> <li>Brasserie Léon de Lyon – 24€ Lunch</li> <li>L’Ourson qui Boit – 17€ Lunch</li> <li>Insens – 24€</li> </ul> After all this, what the heck are you waiting for? Get yourself over to Lyon…besides, maybe you will get to learn about the famed Chef Factory in Lyon 😉 &amp; before you go, check out the <a href=”http://www.en.lyon-france.com/” target=”_blank”>OnlyLyon </a>site for tips, events, and way more history than I could ever give you here. <iframe src=”//www.youtube.com/embed/GTquf5oS0d8″ height=”480″ width=”700″ allowfullscreen=”” frameborder=”0″></iframe> *Check with the restaurants, they may change pricing &nbsp; &nbsp;