Você tem sonhado de ir paraVersailles. After all, it is the most beautiful Castle in the world, right?
Abso-freakin-lutely. Mas você vai odiá-lo. Why, you ask? Because, just like Venice and Dubrovnik, Versailles é um lugar que é ridiculamente invadida por turistas idiotas que nem sequer sabem como se comportar. The volumes of people are so large that the castle is almost impossible to traverse. As multidões são tão grandes que os guardas não podem sequer cuidar da obra de arte. I had to yell at some asshole American tourist who was touching a painting. Then he had the balls to look at me incredulously as if I had no right to do this. If any of you know the “gentleman” in the pictures, please give him the following message as I may have been too furious to be articulate when I was yelling at him in broken French:
THIS GOES TO THAT YOU AND THE MANY MORE LIKE YOU – THE ART IS NOT YOURS – THE ART IS FRAGILE – THE ART IS OLD – IF YOU TOUCH IT WITH YOUR GRUBBY, DISGUSTING, KENTUCKY FRIED CHICKEN LICKING FINGERS, YOU ARE GOING TO RUIN THE ART. YOU ARE NOT ANYWHERE NEAR AS IMPORTANT OR AS SIGNIFICANT AS THIS ART IS. Você vai viver AT MAIS 100 YEARS, MAS ESTA ARTE PODE VIVER NO muito mais tempo se BURROS COMO VOCÊ NÃO TOQUE.
Agora que chegamos que fora do caminho, Vou dar-lhe algumas dicas sobre o que você deve ver em Versalhes, as well as things that will make your trip significantly more pleasant.
Things to see in Versailles
The Orangerie – Sweet oranges were quite precious in France at the time. They had been introduced to France around the 15th century and were important for commerce. O Orangerie em Versalhes foi iniciado por Jules Hardouin-Mansart in1684, before any other part of the complex was begun. Algumas das árvores que você vai ver que existem mais de 200 years old. These are basically the subterranean spaces where the fruit trees can be wintered over and brought into spring. Do not miss the equestrian statue by Bernini.
The Fountain of Latona – The fountain, designed by Balthazar Marsy features the goddess Latona as the “cake topper”. Ele originalmente estava sentada no topo de uma rocha, mas Hardouin-Mansart colocado Latona e seus filhos no top registo em uma base de mármore composta por quatro camadas. Latona, Apollo & Diana’s mother, protege os filhos dos camponeses da Lícia que se recusam a deixá-la beber da sua água. She has them turn into lizards and frogs (which you see on the lower registers). In the middle registers, you can see the transformation happening and on the bottom register you see lizards & turtles fully transformed. Something tells me the king really identified with Latona, why? There was an event called The Fronde that took place during the King’s youth. The people challenged and rose up against royalty. The coup was put down by monarchic forces but only at great effort. It was because of this idea of the constant threat of uprising that it was believed that Louis XIV was leery about living in Paris (heart of the Fronde). The king erected this allegory as a warning to those who may rise up against the monarchy that they too would be turned to frogs if they rebelled.
The Fountain of Apollo -This fountain replaced the Fountain of the Swans. This gilt lead group by Tuby depicts Apollo on his chariot and was inspired by a Le Brun painting. Apollo is seen rising from the horizon on his quadriga (I have a thing for quadrigas – don’t get me started on the Tomb of the Infernal Quadriga). The composition is stunning when the water is on. It looks as if the water parts at his command and adds movement and dynamism. The water even spouts in a Fleur de Lis, a symbol of the French royalty. Basically, this sculpture is the king saying, I am no mere king. I AM APOLLO.
The Grove of Apollo – Hugh Hefner had nothing on Louis XIV. This, in my opinion, is the ultimate grotto.
The Colonnade with Pluto & Persephone – Built by Hardouin-Mansart, the Colonnade replaced the Springs Grove Le Nôtre. There are 32 marble columns. The arcades is decorated with low reliefs showing children. The arches depict nymphs and naiads. O tema da escultura na colunata é uma outra cena das metamorfoses onde Plutão leva-la longe de sua mãe Demeter. Demeter então castiga a terra com as estações do ano. The sculpture was executed by Girardon (1678) who took inspiration from Bernini who sculpted the same scene in 1620.
A Fonte do dragão– I have a thing for dragons, you can blame George R.R. Martin para essa obsessão. A Fonte do dragão representa uma serpente alada morto por flecha de Apollo . O dragão é cercada por golfinhos e putti armados com arcos e flechas como eles montam cisnes.
Avenue des Enfants– Leading to the dragon fountain is an avenue of children. It is a double row of “tiny” fountains depicting children.
The Grand Canal – It is huge. If you think it looks big in pictures, wait until you see it in person. Louis XIV, na verdade, tinha modelos de navios feita para flutuar no canal. Venice once gifted two gondolas (which came with gondoliers) to the king. Rent a boat and get a good upper body workout. Theinfinite sensação do grande canal faz você se sentir oinfinite power of the king.
Galerie des Glaces – This is the thing everyone wants to see, o famosoHall of Mirrors. It’s stunning…the room is by Hardouin Mansard in 1678, e os tectos foram pintados por Charles Le Brun no modo que foi inventado em um hotel em Ile St. Louis by Le Vau (Hotel Lambert). Combination of painting, sculpture and decorative arts as well as architecture that had been preceded by things we find elsewhere, like Vaux Le Vicompte, Hotel Lambert, etc… You really get to see the development of French art here.
Bust of Louis XIV by Bernini – 1665 – The king invited designs from the most important artists. Bernini came to Paris for 5 months and sculpted this piece. Pense nisso como um tapa na cara a Itália desde patrono de Bernini foi o Papa, but he felt this commission was so important that he would leave Rome for 5 months to sculpt it.
Tips to Make your Versailles Trip Easy & Fun
- Passeport pass – Get this. It costs €18 (or €25 when there are water shows) but this gets you access anywhere on the grounds.
- Advance tickets –Buy your tickets in advance so you can skip the lines. If you forgot to buy your tickets online, go to the escritório de turismoem Versalhes quando você chegar à cidade. É bastante vazio e você pode comprar o seu passe de passaporte lá.
- Rent a bike – There are bike rentals at the gardens. Pick up a bottle of rose at the castle, a jambon beurre, and find yourself a nice quiet spot. This will make the trip to Versailles worth it.
- Get there early – like I said, this is one of the worst places for tourists. So if you get there early, you may avoid some of the crowds. Give yourself plenty of time. Versailles is big, uma ou duas horas não vai fazê-lo.
- Go in late September/early October –as multidões são menores e as fontes ainda estão em.
- Check out the city – A cidade real de Versailles émuito charmoso.Definitely make some time to walk through and pick up food at one of their restaurants.
- Wear sunscreen & comfortable shoes – isso é apenas o senso comum.
The property that is now Versailles belonged to a Florentine man named Gondi (a Medici) who was a part of the parliment in Paris. As good Parliamentary members tended to do, he invited his king Louis XIII to drop by for a hunt in his forests. Louis fell in love immediately and thankfully for Gondi his fate was much better than the guy who owned the property Versailles is modeled after. Louis XIII purchased a piece of the property for his use and began to make enhancements. He started off by hiring Le Roi (an architect) to build a small hunting chateau. It was a simple stone structure with a slate roof. In due time, Louis XIII decided to buy the entire property. By 1643, the property was no longer a humble hunting chateau…Versailles had turned into a town with over 1,000 people. The King died in 1642 when his son was a mere 5 years old.
In 1661 when Louis XIV began his own rule, he showed an interest in the site. He liked the idea of escaping Paris and his political duties. Paris was a rough place for the king. Politics and insurrection had interfered with his fun. He began to show interest in the Versailles location and decided to move his offices from Paris to Versailles.
This is where Nicholas Fouquet comes in. He was the minister of finance to Louis XIV (king Junior). Apparently, Nicolas Fouquet estava indo tão bem com as finanças do rei, que ele decidiu contratar um da França de mais procurados achitects, Louis Le Vau, André Le Nôtre and Charles Le Brun to re-design his Chateau -Vaux-Le-Vicompte. He decided (like Gondi) that he would entertain the king. Unfortunately for him. the king was so impressed with the castle, he began to ask himself how Fouquet could afford such an amazing Chateau. Three weeks after their meeting, Fouquet was arrested for embezzlement. His property was seized and became the model for what is seen stylistically in Versailles.
Louis XIV (King Junior) then hired his own architect, Louis Le Vau, after seeing his work at Vaux-Le-Vicompte, to completely make over the chateau into a full on castle as well as landscape architect Andre Le Notre to spruce up the grounds. By 1682, the court had officially moved from Paris to Versailles. Paris lost its title of capital…and anyone who wanted to move to Versaille got a piece of land in the city for free – if they paid taxes each year AND built the house to the specs decided by the architect in chief of the king (gotta love zoning laws).
In 1678, the king officially transferred his court and the government to Versailles. As of 1682, Paris was no longer the capital of France. The city of Versailles grew as the king allowed anyone to have a lot in the city for free as long as they paid a tax every year and built a house according to established architect in chief of the king.
Louis XIV’s house in Versailles is a sign that by this time this vocabulary of architecture (Classical Language – arches, column, engaged columns, horizontal elements) is fully established, it is the only way to build and nobody would go back to the medieval past.
GARDEN design becomes a major element…Land takes over building. The patron makes a statement of his aspirations and the way things should be in his world. Basically the king rules the people, architecture, and nature.
Agora que temos obtido através de um pouco de história, I know you want to see the castle. Heck, I could not resist. I suggest you get there super early before the crowds roll in. As soon as the castle starts to feel stuffy….get the hell out and into its gorgeous gardens.
How to Get to Versailles Castle
Versailles Rive Gauche (RER C from the Saint-Michel and Champ de Mars stations from Paris)
Versailles Rive Droite (Transilien from Saint-Lazare and La Défense stations from Paris)
Versailles Chantiers (Transilien from Montparnasse station from Paris)
DO NOT TAKE A BUS – the train is a quicker and more pleasant ride.
By Car: Take the A13, exit at Versailles Centre. Há estacionamento na Place d'Armes, Allée de Bailly, Grand Trianon and Petit Trianon